I have a
humongous description of the entire trip, so i thought it would be a good idea
to break it into parts. We had four stops at Kerala, so I shall dedicate one
post per place. Now I shall talk about Kochi, the port city, which is a lot
like Mumbai.
December 26, 2012
By around seven we arrived at our hotel in Kochi. It’s a place
called The Wood Manor in M.G Road. This road is an equivalent to Mumbai’s
Linking road, which is also a shopper’s paradise. Branded shops like Nike,
Levi’s, Fast track, Woodland were amongst this shopping area for the Kochi
residents. Two-three storied showrooms were kept specially for gold jewelry.
Only God can explain South Indian obsession with gold.
|
Christmas spirit outside Grand Hotel |
We went for dinner at Grand Hotel at someone’s recommendation. The
place is known for its fish preparation. Karimeen* is supposed to be the
speciality of this place. Maybe it wasn’t our day, because we got a
malnourished karimeen. I had to hunt for some flesh among the bones they served
us. We had to order fish curry as well to fill our stomachs.
Tomorrow we are visiting a Jewish synagogue, Dutch palace and
Cherrai beach. Adios for now.
December 27,2012.
At around seven, my mom woke me up from my blissful sleep. I went
about my morning regiment and went down for breakfast. This place served a good
variety for breakfast including fresh fruits.
|
Jewish street |
A Jewish street led us to the Paradesi Synagogue. The street was
filled with custom made Indian shops for foreigners. I caught fancy of these
salwar like pants many foreigners wore, consisting of Indian prints, mantras or
elephant design. I bought two for myself and a nice stole for my aunt.
|
Paradesi Synagogue |
The synagogue was like any other home of God, peaceful and serene.
There was a pulpit of gold right in the centre for the priest to conduct holy
sermons. A few tablets were erected in someone’s honour. The floor had mosaic
design.
Judaism made itself known around 900 B.C in Kerala. King Solomon’s
people had come to the port of Cranganore for trade. Some of them settled down
here and inspired few Keralites to convert to the religion. The king allowed
and promoted the Jews and other religions to coexist in peace. It continued
this way until the Portuguese invaded Kerala. Currently 90 Jews live in Kerala,
30 of them in Kochi who come every Sunday for service.
|
Street leading to Dutch Palace |
We went to the Dutch Palace, which was just nearby. The place by
itself isn’t that huge or attractive. It has a quadrangle structure with a
Vishnu Temple in the middle. The temple was closed. The walls were old and
charred.
The interior had paintings depicting the story of Ramayana and
other Hindu mythology. The Royal Family’s history was written as well. The
Varma dynasty ruled over the state of Kochi. I remember coming across atleast
half a dozen kings by the name Rama Varma. Probably they honoured Lord Rama too
much. The rulers valued education and maintained good foreign relations. You
can see the Portuguese and Dutch influence in this place.
The royal women weren’t confined to just strolling in the garden,
being attended by an army of servants. They participated in the administration
and decision making of the family. The heirloom concept is an unusual one here.
Instead of the king’s offspring, his sister’s offspring enjoys the privilege of
being the next kin.
If you reside in either Mumbai or Dubai, you must have definitely
come across one Nair friend. Nairs were the warriors of the olden days. They
mastered Kalaripayatu, Kerala’s own form of martial art. Both the sexes learnt
it till puberty, but only a handful of women went on to master it throughout
their life. However women were strong enough to protect themselves. Nair
community extends to the last name Kurup, Paniker and Nambiar as well(I know
friends which go by each of the surname).
We went for lunch to Woodland’s Rangoli. It wasn’t too impressive.
The paper dosa was fine but other stuff were below average. We rested in our
hotel for a while and then left to the beach.
|
The sun shining above Arabian sea |
|
Air, Water and Land coexisting in harmony |
|
Dad at Cherai beach |
We arrived at Cherai beach at around 4.30 pm. The beach is long and
clean. By clean I don’t mean perfectly clean but better than Juhu in every way.
The water sparkled, reflecting the sun rays. 15 km of beach was available for a
good walk. Many resorts marked their territory on the shores. For the first
time in my life, I swam in the sea. Just a few seconds in shallow water. I
could have gone further but I was afraid as there wasn’t anyone in the deep.
Besides an offlate fear of waves in born in me, something I wouldn’t really
like to discuss here.
We went back to Hotel Grand to have dinner. The food there is good,
but overrated. You must however try the fish cooked in banana leaves over
there, it was different.
December 28, 2012.
|
Kochi port |
|
Fishermen at work |
We had to wake up early in the morning to check out from the hotel.
It’s always a struggle, waking up. We went for a boat ride along the port. The
start to the ride is just around the same place as the Dutch Palace. We saw
carriages being taken from the ships. Egrets embedded the coconut trees on an
island we passed. Fishermen rowed their boats and hoped to catch a full meal
for the city. Cruise boarded with over enthusiastic passangers.
|
Egrets resting on the leaves |
|
Standing tall |
After that we went to Fort Kochi. I will keep this bit a surprise
for you. But you must visit this place. Remember to visit the Chinese fishing
nets as well.
|
Chinese fishing nets |
The Chinese fishing net is huge and full of woodwork. It used all
sorts of basic force laws we learn in mechanics(science and engineering
students will know what I am talking about). One of the fisherman showed us its
working, and even let us pull the rope. I didn’t use even a bit of force for
pulling, the others compensated well for me. I even held a fish which was
restless to jump back to the waters.
|
Fisherman taking the captured fishes out |
From there we left to Kumarakom.
*Karimeen - Pomfret
All photos taken by me.